Caring For Your New Landscape
Thank you for allowing Platinum Landscape & Design LLC to be involved in the design and creation of your landscape. Because your landscape is a living and breathing feature, it needs attention. In order for your landscape to develop and continue to beautify your house, there are several things that YOU need to know. This resource was developed to help you toward that end!

Irrigation
The sprinkler system plays a key role in the development and health of your landscape. We design each system based on the unique requirements each landscape presents. Regardless of the project, each landscape will have separate zones for plants and grass. Plant material requires less water than grass and so these systems must be separate!

You will find the stations for grass on “Program A” and the stations for plants on “Program B” on your timer. Depending on the time of the year, the watering times will need to be adjusted. As you observe your landscape, you might note that the lawn is browning up based on heat or wind. You would want to increase the water. You might notice that certain plants seem to be struggling. After checking, you find that the soil is very wet. You would then want to decrease the time and dry it out.

Clock/Controller
When the grass is first installed, it is very important to keep it wet- especially with the heat and wind we get. We will monitor the first two weeks carefully, but we always ask for your help. When other contractors are involved (new home construction) we have noticed that the timer has been turned off or unplugged. A day without water on new grass is a significant problem. Please make sure that no one messes with your timer.

Before the lawn is mowed for the first time, we recommend turning the timer off for one day to let the lawn dry out. This minimizes any damage to the grade. Simply turn the clock to “off”.

Each timer comes with a set of directions. We encourage you to become acquainted with the operation of your timer and if you have questions, please call us. Because we deal with 4 different seasons, you will need to take responsibility to adjust your timer based on the different seasonal demands.

In the spring, we recommend conservative watering. You will train your grass and plants on how much water they need. Deep watering draws the roots deep and creates healthy plants and grass. This is best accomplished by watering for longer periods less frequently.

As we move into the heat of summer, more time will be required. Most clocks have a % feature which simply allows you to increase or decrease the percent of water being delivered. As fall emerges, start decreasing the length of time and the number of days.

We recommend giving all your plant material a thorough watering in the late fall for required moisture and preparation for dormancy.

Sprinkler Heads
When we install your system, we go through and adjust each head. However, these heads tend to require additional fine-tuning. Standard use and varying site conditions demand some attention. Prior to leaving your project, we will instruct you on the way to adjust these heads. As a reference, these are the types of heads that we work with:

1. Drip System. With a drip line, the biggest need is to make sure that the small spaghetti lines do not get disconnected as a result of people or animals walking through the flower beds. They deliver small amounts of water depending upon the nozzle that we install.
2. Pop-up Heads. We use these in flowerbeds or in the lawn. A pop-up sprays a constant stream without any rotation. The head is fixed. If the adjustment is off, those areas will not be watered. We use a head that has an adjustment built right into it (VAN-variable adjustable nozzle). All you need to do is twist the top to increase or decrease the radius. These heads tend to be knocked by lawnmowers or edgers and are quick and easy to re-adjust. At times, winds will come through an area and necessitate an adjustment. In order for the spray to hit the desired area, you might need to overspray so that the wind blows the spray onto the desired area. A pop-up head will deliver a constant stream to a dedicated area so they should be run for shorter periods of time.
3. Rotor Heads. These are the most difficult to adjust. They require a plastic tool which we will leave with you. These heads are used in the lawn to cover larger areas. Because they are gear driven, they rotate and spray a stream of water. You can adjust: a) the radius (0-360 degrees), b) the amount of water coming out the nozzle (by changing the actual nozzle) and c) the distribution of spray. By choking down on the nozzle, you will create more spray to cover areas up close to the head and decrease the reach. You might find that you need to minimize distance and create more of a misting effect. Please put the adjustment tool in a safe place. A rotor will distribute a spray of water over an area and then rotate back and forth. Rotors need to be on for much longer periods of time because the water to a dedicated area is not constant.

GRASS
A well-maintained lawn creates a stunning effect on any home. While a lawn requires mowing, it is quite easy to maintain. We will share several things we have learned over the years in our maintenance business to help ensure the health and beauty of your lawn.

1. Mowing. You will want to mow your lawn weekly to maintain the appearance. We recommend keeping the grass longer. Do not cut at the lowest setting. The heat and wind in Utah dry lawns out quickly. The longer the blade, the more the color, moisture and nutrients are preserved. Mulching creates the healthiest lawn because the nutrients are reintroduced back rather than being bagged and taken away. With mulching, you need to be regular and not let the grass grow too long. Bagging is good when there are a lot of walkways or a lot of leaves or debris that end up on the lawn. The sharper your mower blades, the better the cut. You will notice that the blades of grass will look like they have been ripped rather than cut when your blades are dull. A sharp blade will have a great impact on the quality of the cut!
2. Aerating. We recommend aeration in the Spring and Fall as a minimum. Aeration creates a healthy root system. Wait until the second year of growth before you aerate. The plugs are best left on the lawn. Once they dry out, they disintegrate when mowed.
3. Fertilizing. Proper fertilization is extremely important. Each time the lawn is cut, the majority of nutrients (which reside in the tip of the grass blade) are cut. Over time, the grass becomes depleted and turns yellow or anemic. At a minimum, your grass should be fertilized 4 times. In the spring, we recommend an early pre-emergent to control weed growth. This can usually be accomplished with a weed and feed. As the season develops, different ratios of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium (this is the ratio listed on the bag such as 30-10-10, N-P-K) will need to be applied. A granular application seems to work best because of the slow release and the ability to achieve a better application. As a good rule of thumb, make sure that all concrete areas are swept or blown off before watering. Many sidewalks and driveways have “rust stains” because of the fertilizer that was left after an application.
4. Irrigation. This is extremely important and easy to observe. As stated earlier, deep watering on a less frequent basis is better than a little water more often. We will set your system up with the proper times for each zone. It is possible that some zones will require more or less water over time (ie: a zone at the bottom of a hill that collects water from the hill). If you notice that the lawn is starting to “brown” or “gray up”, increase the water. If you notice that only certain spots are “browing out”, a head or two might need to adjusted. Most people tend to over-water and waste a lot of water and hurt their grass and plant material. We encourage you to water late at night or early in the morning so that the heat of the day does not cause a lot of evaporation before the water can soak in- we do live in a desert!

PLANT AND TREE CARE
We take a personal interest in the quality and the establishment of your plant material. We have hand-selected specific growers to ensure that we receive their best material. We handle all plant material carefully and have special processes that we follow to ensure the success of everything we plant.

Plants and trees are living organisms that need care and attention in order to thrive. This section will describe what we do for you and what you will need to do for your landscape to thrive.

When we plant your trees and plants (hereafter referred to as “material”), we plant the top of the root ball so that it peaks above the grade. If the root ball is too low, the trunk suffocates and tends to pool up with water. We leave the canvas sack and wire mesh around the root ball to keep everything intact. Attempting to remove any of that would damage the roots severely.

The first months are critical as the material is in a state of “transplant shock”. We do everything we can to minimize this shock and move the material toward immediate growth.

Upon planting, everything is deep soaked and thoroughly watered. We stake major trees to ensure that they grow straight and that the root balls do not move (we remove the stakes after 12 months). Any root movement tends to disrupt the tiny new growth and create further shock. We have invested in a “transplant fertilizer system” that we perform immediately after planting. Finally, we observe a project for the first 3 weeks to keep a close eye on all material.

A major reason for material shock is too much water and extreme conditions such as high heat and high winds. When these things occur, the leaves will start to droop and dry out. This is the way that the plant/tree saves all nutrients to the core. If the conditions are resolved, the plant/tree may promote new growth within the same season. Otherwise, it will happen the following spring. Please let us know if any of your material is struggling so that we can offer recommendations. This is one area that you will need to pay close attention to at first!!!

A common tendency is to apply more water to material when it is struggling. Before doing that, check to see how wet the soil is. If the soil is soggy, that is a primary indicator that the material is too wet and needs to dry out. You will be surprised how quickly the material “bounces back” when it dries out.

Pruning
As a general rule of thumb, proper pruning is critical for material to promote growth. While there are different schools of thought, pruning is best done in the late fall or early spring. Once the material has lost the leaves, you can prune back the branches.

On most plants, a good pruning will promote rapid new growth in the spring creating a healthier plant. You might notice that certain branches have died and those can be cut out during the season to create a healthier looking plant.

Some plant material is used to create more formal looks or a hedge and seasonal pruning would be required to maintain the shape.

Pruning trees can be a little more strategic and we recommend doing some reading or attending a class on proper pruning techniques.

Fertilization
Fertilization plays an important role in “material” vitality. We recommend that your “material” is fertilized at least once a year in the spring. You can spend a lot of money having someone else do this. It is very easy and does not take a lot of time.

We recommend a granular application (the same you put on your grass). The best formula is an even blend of 18-18-18 or 18-10-10. Simply take a handful and spread evenly around the root ball. Make sure that the fertilizer does not rest on any foliage or it will burn (gently shake the material to remove any granules that might be on the leaves or branches). After everything has been fertilized, water in the fertilizer and watch for the new growth.

SEE APPENDIX FOR MORE INFO

TOPDRESSING TOUCH-UP
Most of the time, we install some type of a top dressing in flower beds. This dressing looks nice for awhile, but over time, it will need to be replaced.

The most common top-dressings are: a) shredded bark, b) bark fines which are tinier and decompose into the soil, c) a rich topsoil and d) gravel or rock.

In terms of replacement, rock has the longest life cycle. Topsoil can be raked out and made to look new. Bark fines are light and in windy areas, tend to blow out and therefore need to be replenished. Shredded bark discolors due to the heat and water and is usually replaced every 2-3 years.

To maintain the appearance of the top-dressing, we recommend carefully raking out the flower-beds and turning over the old product and exposing fresher bark or topsoil.

When it comes time to replace your bark, feel free to call us for an estimate.

WEEDING
This is something that every homeowner hates to deal with. We have several recommendations to help ease this burden.

With weeding, the key is to get on top of it early and then manage it. If you let it get out of hand, then it becomes a chore.

At the beginning of the season, apply a pre-emergent to the lawn and to all flower-beds. If done early enough, the pre-emergent kills the dormant weed seeds. Topdressing also helps to minimize weed growth as it is not dense enough for the weeds to grow in.

During the season, when weeds begin to appear, get to them quickly. The easiest way is to buy a product like RoundUp and just spray the weed. The solution only kills what it touches so be careful not to spray any plants that you want to save. This should take no more than one hour per month if you stay on top.

Read the instructions regarding application. If it is windy, rainy or too hot, the application is ineffective.

WATERGARDENING
Living around and enjoying your water garden will become a cherished time for your family. The sound of the water and the beauty of it can have a transforming effect. To help maintain the beauty of your watergarden, there are several things you will need to do.

Our goal is to create an ecosystem that is largely maintenance free. We install, where possible, an auto fill valve that automatically monitors and adjusts the water level. Each system operates by recirulating water from the top to the bottom. This recirculation creates oxygen and does not allow for stagnation. With evaporation and splashing, small amounts of water are lost and the auto fill valve keeps the proper levels.

Throughout the year, as the weather changes, ponds tend to experience “algae blooms”. This is a natural occurrence any time water and heat exist. Algae will be found in any natural pond and is part of the ecosystem. If the algae begins to get out of hand, it can be easily treated. Take a tablespoon of Clorox and put it in the water. This should begin to dissolve the algae. Several applications may be needed to bring it back in balance.

For those who have fish or plant material in the pond, you will want to use a fish/plant friendly product. Most of these products are granular and will be applied to the surface of the pond. You will find that certain products control different situations: EcoBlast is a good product for getting algae under control, SAB (String Algae Buster) is a good product to reduce the string algae growth and so on. You will want to take some time and get educated about your pond and what you can do to keep it clean and healthy.

The biggest variable is ensuring that you create and maintain a natural ecosystem. This means that the system needs to run 24/7 and that the conditions we have talked about are monitored. For those of you with a pondless system, many of these maintenance issues do not apply.

As debris enters the pond, it will float into the skimmer box or settle to the bottom. Where possible, especially in areas where there are many trees, try and keep the pond clean and the debris out. Twigs, paper, garbage and plastic bags, if not removed, will get stuck in the impeller on the pump and plug or block it. A weekly check is usually all that is needed (do it when you mow the lawn) to keep it clean.

We encourage children to be around the pond. If they are not supervised, children and animals tend to disrupt the rocks that we have placed in the pond and around the edges. Sometimes the liner is exposed and other times the characteristics of the waterfall change. These are easily fixed- simply put the rock back in place. Most of the rocks are set in without mortar to create a naturalistic look.

As winter rolls around, you can either keep the system running or shut it down. If you want to keep it running, no damage will result. You WILL need to use a hose to manually fill the pond because the Auto Fill Valve will not work since it is connected to the sprinkler system. You should check the level once a week. The combination of running water with snow and ice is often breathtaking. Should you choose to shut it down, simply disconnect the power and leave the pump in the pond.

In the spring, you can clean the pond or drain it, and then start it up again to enjoy another season.

LOW VOLTAGE LIGHTING
Our goal in all parts of the landscape installation is to install a product that is easy to maintain or adjust. We strategically place all lights with a focus on certain aspect of the landscape. If you desire to adjust the setting, it is very easy to do. Each light has a nut that can be loosened to adjust the light either up or down. To adjust the direction either left or right, simply twist the light to the desired location.

These lights are low voltage and are connected to wire that is buried beneath the ground. Therefore, you can’t pick up the light and move it to a new location without digging up the wiring. And, you will be limited in how far you can relocate the light based on the available wire.

The biggest maintenance concerns are the lights getting bumped or pulled out of the ground. Just insert the light stake back into the desired location and make sure that it works. Sometimes the connection underground gets broken so if the light does not work, dig back the ground and make sure that all wires are connected into the waterproof encasing.

Over time, light bulbs will burn out and need to be replaced. To get the glass cover off, unscrew the nut that holds and remove the glass lens. We can secure new light bulbs for you through our distributor.

The last item is the low voltage transformer. Each light is on a ZONE. We minimize the number of lights per zone so that we do not have line voltage drop. Most systems are equipped with a timer so that you can set the time for the lights to come on and off. As the season changes, you will want to adjust the start time.